Browsing by Author "Ibaceta Vega, Raimundo Javier"
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Thesis NUEVO MÉTODO DE MEDICIÓN DE ALTA FRECUENCIA DE LA ZONA DE SWASH BASADO EN SENSORES REMOTOS(2016) Ibaceta Vega, Raimundo Javier; Departamento de Obras Civiles; Catalán Mondaca, Patricio AndrésThe thorough comprehension of the swash zone is of critical importance because the understandingof the processes responsible for the coastal evolution at different time scales is crucial for beachmanagement and the sustainability of the coastal areas, impacting both coastal population and nearbyecosystems. However, the swash zone is the area of the nearshore less understood. Among the reasonsfor this deficit, the most important is the complexity of the physical phenomena involved, such ashigh velocities in a shallow lens of water of a few centimeters depth, inducing high levels of sedimenttransport and turbulence. The latter represents a challenge and difficulty for in situ instrumentationof this zone and the consequent lack of information for validation and analysis. In this context, therehas been a consensus in the scientific community that the comprehension of the swash zone must befocused at high temporal frequencies, i.e. at the wave-by-wave scale.On the other hand, during the last decades, techniques based on stereometric and remote sensinghave been widely used, being an effective low cost technique for measuring different coastal processesat various time scales and over large spatial domains.In this work, we introduce a new method to measure the swash zone at high frequencies. The newtechnique consists on the deployment of morphological rods (palitos) and a video camera recordinga cross-shore transect of vertical poles. The synoptic nature of these stereometric techniques andthe variations in optical intensity present in the swash zone enable the extraction of bed level andwater depth time series. First, the methodology is outlined, including the physical deployment andrecommendations in conjunction with the undertaken field studies where the technique has beenapplied. Also, the image processing necessary for the data extraction is explained. The validation iscarried out against conventional instruments (LIDAR, ultrasonic level sensors and pressure sensors).Analysis is done by means of statistical properties and qualitative analysis, which serve as a base toidentify the main advantages and drawbacks of the proposed method.